DORMEUIL - THE COOL BRITISH STYLE

Posted on 10 December 2015

Dormeuil on üks kolmest Amanjeda tähtsaimast villakangaste tarnijast meeste klassikaliste ülikondade, bleisrite ja mantlite jaoks. Dormeuil omab täna vabrikuid Yorkshire’is, Inglismaal. Yorkshire on üks kahest ajaloolisest pikkade traditsioonidega villa tootmise piirkonnast maailmas, Biella piirkonna kõrval Itaalias.

Aastal 1842 Jules Dormeuil poolt loodud perefirma on tänaseks kasvanud rahvusvaheliseks luksuskangaste tarnijaks. Dormeuil on oma 170 aastase ajaloo vältel loonud ajatuid ja ikoonilise tähendusega kangaid ning kinnistanud oma maine kõigil viiel kontinendil. Dormeuil britiliku elegantsiga kangastest ülikondi kannab maailma eliit, kuningad ja presidendid ning Holliwoody staarid. Leonardo DiCaprio on riietatud Dormeuil kangastest ülikondadesse "Great Catsby’s".

 

Täna on Dormeuil lahutamatu osa luksuskaupade maailmast, olles samal ajal teerajaja uuenduslike ülikonnakangaste arendajana. Dormeuil kasutab oma toodangus maailma parimaid ja kõige haruldasemaid looduslikke kiude. Haute Couture moemajad on võlutud Dormeuil kangastest. Dormeuil kollektsioonid sisaldavad palju kauneid ultraluksuslikke kangaid nagu Guanashina, Super 200’s, on olemas teemanttolmu ja kuldniidiga kangad.

Kuulsaimad ja enimmüüduimad artiklid Dormeuil valikus on aga mohäärvillad, sealhulgas kuulus "Tonik" kangas. Mohäärvilla kiud on eriliselt pikk ja siidine, mis annab tulemuseks iseloomuliku kahetoonilise kauni säraga ülikonnakanga. Mohäärvillast valmistatud ülikonnale iseloomulik tugev selge vorm, ta ei korstu ja säilitab hästi oma kuju. Dormeuil on tootnud Tonikut alates 1958. aastast, legendaarsetel 1960ndatel kandsid Tonik mohäärist ülikondi Briti subkultuurid nagu Teddy Boys ja Mods. Dormeuil Tonik mohäärkangast ülikondi on kandnud Sting ja Michael Cane. Mohäärkanga “Tonik” kandis aga tõeliselt kuulsaks Sean Connery James Bond’ina.

 

 

DORMEUIL “MOHAIR” KATALOOG

"Mohair" kataloog koosneb täna juba tuntud legendaarsetest ja brändistaatuses olevatest kangaartiklitest nagu "Tonik", "Super Brio" ja "Panoramic Mohair". Ka on kataloogis mohäärvilla ja siidi segu kangad, need on unikaalsed oma pehmuse ja võrratu sära poolest. "Panoramic Mohair" on segu kammvillast ja vaid 15 protsenti mohäärvillast. See taskukohase hinnaklassiga kangas omab kõiki väärtuslikke mohäärkanga omadusi.

Tonik on premium klassi kangas ja sisaldab 90 protsenti mohääri. Riie on kerge ja tundub kuulikindlana. See on suurepärane kangast eritellimusel valmistatava ülikonna jaoks. Tonik on selgelt kangamaailma Rolls Royce. Öösinisest Tonikust õmmeldud tume ülikond või smoking on härrasmehe garderoobi uhkuseks.

 

MOHÄÄRVILLA PÄRITOLU

Mohäärvilla annab meile angoorakits, kes on pärit algselt Himaalaja nõlvadelt ja levinud sealt Türgisse. Nimetus „mohäär“ tuleneb araabiakeelsest sõnast „muchay“, mis tähendab „riiet, mis on valmistatud läikivast kitsekarvast“ ja nimetus „angoorakits“ on tulnud Türgis asuva Ankara maakonna järgi. Aastasadu pidasid türklased mohääri oma monopoliks, toorvilla ja angoorakitse eksport oli rangelt keelatud. Monopol murdus alles 19. sajandi keskel, kui Lõuna-Aafrikasse viidi esimesed kitsed.

-----

Dormeuil is one of three Amanjeda's most important finest woollen fabrics suppliers for mens classical suits, jackets and coats with factories in Yorkshire, England. Yorkshire is one of the two best wool manufacturing areas of the world, alongside Biella region in Italy.

In 1842, Jules Dormeuil created a family business that would soon become world leader in supplying luxury fine cloths. For 170 years, The House of Dormeuil has developed timeless and iconic fabrics that have cemented the Company’s reputation across all five continents. From Kings to Presidents, Hollywood to connoisseurs, Dormeuil continues to dress the world’s elite with timeless British elegance. Leonardo DiCaprio is wearing Dormeuil in “Great Catsby”, The Mohair Tonik was worn famous by Sean Connery as James Bond.

Today, Dormeuil fits comfortably into the world of contemporary luxury, pioneering innovative cloths using the world’s finest and rarest natural fibers. Dormeuil’s collections include the exquisite Haute Couture range that continues to tempt leading fashion houses of our time while also offering limited edition cloths for the extraordinary. These exceptional fabrics are developed by Dormeuil’s own design team and manufactured in England, using the traditional methods that are blended with the very best of modern technology.

Dormeuil fabric collections include many fine ultra luxury cloths such as Guanashina, Super 200‘s or even cloths with diamond fragments and gold thread. Still among Dormeuil’ bestsellers and most famous articles are the Mohair wool blends. The Dormeuil' Mohair wools are worn by Sting, Leonardo di Caprio, Sean Connery and Michael Cane. Mohair wool is special for its characteristic fine sheen and sharp modern shape as a suit. The colour ranges are unique and very fashionable.

 

 

THE DORMEUIL MOHAIR BUNCH

The “Mohair” bunch, composed of renowned Dormeuil Mohair fabrics contains the legendary fabric labels as the “Tonik”, “Super Brio” and “Panoramic Mohair”. Dormeuil has been producing “Tonik” since 1958, it became legendary in the 1960s were it was worn by lounge singers like Dino and Frank as well as Teddy boys and Mods, see Stings suit in Quadrophenia.

Mohair is used as a blend with Worsted Wool or with Silk. The Silk and Mohair mix has flourished into a fabric with an incomparable sheen and handle. The “Panoramic Mohair” is a blend with worsted wool and just 15 percent of Mohair, setting the nice affordable range of the “Mohair” bunch.

“Tonik” is the premium class with it’s 90 percent of Mohair fiber. The cloth is a lightweight and feels bulletproof. It’s an excellent fabric for bespoke suits as it resists creasing and has an excellent hold. It is called the Rolls Royce of Fabrics and one of the more expensive suiting fabrics, but for the gentlemen who seek the best, we would certainly recommend it. It’s zenith is how it looks in the light and the dark. The Black Tie suit made of Midnight blue or black Tonik Mohair is just amazing with it’s gentle sheen and sharp shape.

 

WHAT IS MOHAIR?

Mohair is the fiber produced by Angora goats. These animals are widely raised from Turkey – the name angora comes, in fact, from Ankara, the capital of Turkey, where these goats have been known for over a thousand years – to Texas, although the most expert breeders are in South Africa, which has an annual production of 5,5 million kilograms of mohair, slightly less than half the annual world production, which is about 12 million kilogram.

Mohair is characterised by its natural elasticity, and by the shiny, uniform aspect of the fibres with the absence of impurities.

Evolving as it did in very humid climates, the mohair goat has developed a highly compact coat with features of ductility and water repellence that make it ideal for both summer and winter fashions. The most refined fabrics are produced using kid mohair, with fibres obtained from the first shearing,  generally in the first six months of the animal’s life. The fibres of kid mohair have a translucent white colour and a diameter between 30 and 25 micron.

-----

Our favourite suit fabric supplier besides Dormeuil – Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna – that purchases the finest varieties (25 micron) – participates in the most important auctions and is the world’s largest purchaser, with 50% of all the kid mohair used in textile production.

 

 

More Posts

1 comment

  • katrin johanson: December 11, 2015

    Cool! Testitud on see ja toimib!

Leave a comment

All blog comments are checked prior to publishing

Search our store